Anthurium care comes down to bright indirect light, a chunky, fast-draining mix, watering when the top inch of soil is dry, and warm, humid air of around 60–80%. Give a flamingo flower (Anthurium andraeanum) those conditions and it can produce its glossy red, pink or white “flowers” for much of the year. Most problems come from soggy soil, harsh direct sun, cold drafts, or dry winter air.
This guide explains how to care for an anthurium plant indoors. It covers light, watering, humidity, temperature, soil, feeding, repotting and propagation, then the popular flowering and velvet-leaf varieties, troubleshooting and pet safety.
Every Patch Plants guide is researched and written by Sawera Shahid, a botanist with an MPhil in Botany and more than five years of plant-care writing. Our advice is checked against plant science and extension research, so it works in real homes rather than just in theory.
Anthurium Care at a Glance
| Need | What Anthurium Wants |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright, indirect light; an east window or set back from a south or west window |
| Water | When the top inch of soil is dry; never let it stand in water |
| Humidity | About 60–80% |
| Temperature | 65–80°F (18–27°C); no cold drafts |
| Soil | Chunky aroid mix: potting mix, orchid bark and perlite |
| Feeding | Half-strength liquid feed every 4–6 weeks in spring and summer |
| Repotting | Every 2–3 years in spring, one pot size up |
| Pets | Toxic to cats, dogs and people if chewed |
What Is an Anthurium?
Anthurium is a large genus of tropical plants in the arum family. The flamingo flower most often sold as a houseplant, Anthurium andraeanum, comes from Colombia and Ecuador, according to NC State Extension’s plant profile. Many anthuriums grow as epiphytes on trees in humid forests, with roots that need air as well as moisture.
The bright, waxy “flower” is actually a spathe, a modified leaf. The true flowers are tiny and sit on the finger-like spike in the center, called the spadix. Each spathe can stay colorful for weeks, which is why anthuriums seem to flower for so long.
Indoor anthuriums fall into two groups. Flowering types, mainly A. andraeanum hybrids, are grown for their spathes. Foliage types, such as A. clarinervium and A. crystallinum, are grown for velvety leaves with silver veins and usually need even more humidity.
Anthurium Care: Light Requirements
Light is the starting point of anthurium care indoors. Bright, indirect light keeps leaves glossy and spathes coming. NC State notes that bright indirect light is preferred and that direct sun can scorch the leaves. Good spots include:
- Close to an east-facing window with gentle morning sun
- A few feet back from a south or west window, or behind a sheer curtain
- Under a full-spectrum grow light in darker rooms
Too much sun: yellowed, bleached or crispy brown patches. Too little light: dark green leaves, slow growth, stretched stems and few or no new spathes. Low light is the most common reason an anthurium stops flowering.
Our complete guide to indoor light helps you judge your windows, and our guide to grow lights for indoor plants covers lamps for dim rooms.
Anthurium Care: How to Water
Water when the top inch (about 2–3 cm) of soil feels dry. Pour slowly until water runs from the drainage holes, let it drain, and empty the saucer. NC State advises keeping the soil moist but well-drained.
- Spring and summer: often about once a week in a warm, bright room
- Autumn and winter: every 10–14 days or so, as growth slows
Always check the soil rather than following a fixed schedule. A slightly dry anthurium droops and recovers quickly once watered. One that stays wet develops root rot, which is much harder to fix. Our article on the signs you’re overwatering shows the early warnings, and our complete watering guide covers technique.
Use room-temperature water. If leaf tips keep browning even with good humidity, try rainwater or filtered water, and flush the pot with plain water every few months to clear fertilizer salts.
Anthurium Care: Humidity
Anthuriums come from humid tropical forests, and NC State recommends 60–80% humidity. Heated homes in winter can drop well below that, which shows up as brown, crispy leaf tips and spathes that fade sooner.
Ways to raise humidity:
- Humidifier: the most reliable option, especially in winter
- Pebble tray: a tray of wet pebbles under the pot, with the pot sitting above the water; see our DIY humidity tray guide
- Grouping: clustering plants creates a more humid pocket of air
- Bright bathroom: a good home if it has a window
Misting gives only a brief boost and wet leaves in still air can encourage leaf spots, so a humidifier or tray is better. Our humidity hacks explain more low-cost methods.
Temperature
NC State lists a preferred range of 65–80°F (18–27°C) and notes that anthuriums do not tolerate cold drafts or sudden temperature changes. Below about 60°F (16°C), growth and flowering slow, and cold air can cause dark patches on leaves.
- Keep plants away from open doors, drafty windows and air-conditioning vents
- Leave a gap between leaves and cold window glass in winter
- Avoid placing them directly above radiators or heaters
In cool climates, anthuriums are best kept indoors year-round. They are only hardy outdoors in frost-free tropical regions.
Best Soil and Pot for Anthurium
Anthurium roots need air. Dense potting compost on its own stays wet and is one of the main causes of root rot. Use a chunky aroid mix, such as:
- 1 part indoor potting mix
- 1 part orchid bark
- 1 part perlite or pumice
- Optional: a little horticultural charcoal or coco chips
Ready-made aroid mixes work well too. Always use a pot with drainage holes, and choose one only slightly larger than the root ball. Our guide to the best soil mix for every type of plant explains aroid mixes in more detail, and the soil calculator helps you measure quantities.
Self-watering pots can keep anthurium soil too wet unless used carefully. Our article on whether self-watering pots really work explains the trade-offs.
Feeding Anthurium
Feeding is the part of anthurium care most people forget. Regular, gentle feeding keeps anthuriums flowering. NC State lists nutrient deficiency as a cause of reduced flowering and yellow leaves. Use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength every four to six weeks in spring and summer, or a fertilizer labeled for flowering houseplants. Cut back or stop in winter.
- Water first, then feed, so roots are not burned
- Do not overfeed; salt build-up causes brown tips
- Flush the pot with plain water every few months
Our guide to household plant fertilizer explains labels and ratios.
Repotting Anthurium
Anthuriums grow slowly and like being slightly snug in their pot. Repot every two to three years in spring, or sooner if roots circle the pot, push out of the drainage holes, or the mix has broken down and stays soggy.
- Water the day before so the root ball slides out easily.
- Ease the plant out and loosen old mix from the roots.
- Trim any black, mushy roots with clean scissors.
- Set it in a pot one size larger at the same depth, and fill with fresh aroid mix.
- Water lightly and keep it out of direct sun for a week or two.
Our how to repot a plant guide covers the basics, and our list of repotting mistakes to avoid helps prevent overpotting.
How to Propagate Anthurium
NC State lists division and stem cuttings as the main propagation methods. Division at repotting time is the easiest.
Division
- Remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the roots.
- Look for natural clumps, each with its own stem, leaves and roots.
- Pull them apart, or cut with a clean knife if needed.
- Pot each piece in fresh aroid mix.
- Keep warm, humid and in bright indirect light while new roots grow.
Stem Cuttings
Older anthuriums can develop a long stem with aerial roots. Cut a section with at least one node and some aerial roots, then root it in moist sphagnum moss or chunky mix in a warm, humid spot. See our guide on how to propagate houseplants at home for more techniques.
Popular Anthurium Varieties
Flamingo Flower (Anthurium andraeanum)
The classic anthurium with heart-shaped spathes in red, pink, white, coral, purple and green. Color does not change care: red, pink and white types all follow this guide. It is the easiest anthurium for beginners. For more red-flowering options, see our list of indoor plants with red flowers.
Anthurium clarinervium
Grown for thick, heart-shaped, velvety leaves with bold white veins. It prefers bright indirect light, steady warmth and higher humidity, and is slower growing than the flamingo flower.
Anthurium crystallinum
Similar to clarinervium but with larger, thinner leaves and shimmering silver veins. It needs consistent moisture, high humidity and a very airy mix.
King and Queen Anthuriums
A. veitchii (king) has long, hanging, deeply ribbed leaves, and A. warocqueanum (queen) has long, narrow velvet leaves. Both need very high humidity and stable warmth, so they suit experienced growers, cabinets or greenhouses. Our guide to rare houseplants worth the hunt covers more collector plants.
Common Anthurium Problems
Brown Leaf Tips or Edges
- Crispy tips: low humidity, salt build-up, or tap water minerals
- Dry brown patches: direct sun scorch
- Brown edges with yellowing: overwatering or root problems
- Brown spadix after flowering: normal aging; cut the spent flower stem at its base
Our leaf curl, browning and droop guide helps narrow it down.
Yellow Leaves
NC State lists overwatering, poor drainage and nutrient deficiency as the usual causes. An occasional yellow lower leaf is normal aging. Check the soil and roots first. Our guide on why plant leaves turn yellow covers full diagnosis.
Anthurium Not Flowering
- Too little light: the most common cause; move it closer to a bright window
- No feeding: resume a half-strength feed in spring and summer
- Too cold: keep it above about 65°F (18°C)
- Dry air: raise humidity
- Old, exhausted mix: repot into fresh aroid mix
For other bloomers that suit similar conditions, see our 23 blooming indoor plants.
Root Rot
Wilting despite wet soil, a soft base and dark, mushy roots mean rot. Remove the plant, cut away all damaged roots, and repot into fresh, dry aroid mix in a clean pot with drainage. Then water less often. Our root rot guide covers the full process.
Leaf Spots
NC State notes that leaf spots can develop with poor air circulation or wet foliage. Remove badly spotted leaves, keep water off the leaves and improve airflow.
Pests
NC State lists aphids, spider mites, mealybugs and scale. Wiping leaves regularly helps you spot pests early; see our guide on how to clean plant leaves. Dry air encourages spider mites on plants, so good humidity also helps prevent them.
Is Anthurium Toxic to Cats and Dogs?
Yes. NC State lists calcium oxalate crystals as the toxic principle in all parts of the plant. If chewed, they can cause drooling, mouth pain, swelling of the mouth, lips and tongue, difficulty swallowing and vomiting. The sap can also irritate skin and eyes. Keep anthuriums out of reach of pets and children, and contact your vet if a pet chews one. Our guides to cat-friendly plants and dog-friendly plants list safer choices.
Where to Display Anthurium
Good anthurium care indoors starts with placement. Choose bright, warm, draft-free spots. A side table near an east window, a bright bathroom, or a shelf near a filtered south window all work well. Anthuriums also make long-lasting desk plants in a bright office; see our ideas to improve your home office with plants.
Pair them with other humidity-loving tropicals, such as a peace lily or philodendron, so the group raises humidity together. For more styling ideas, see our guide to styling indoor plants by room.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I water an anthurium?
Water when the top inch of soil is dry, usually about once a week in spring and summer and every 10–14 days in winter. Water thoroughly, let it drain, and never leave the pot standing in water.
Why are my anthurium leaves turning brown?
Brown, crispy tips usually mean low humidity, fertilizer salts or tap water minerals. Dry brown patches mean sun scorch, and brown edges with yellowing suggest overwatering or root rot.
Why is my anthurium not flowering?
Low light is the most common cause. Move it to bright, indirect light, keep it warm, raise humidity, and feed at half strength every four to six weeks in spring and summer.
Does anthurium need direct sunlight?
No. Anthuriums prefer bright, indirect light. A little gentle morning sun is fine, but strong direct sun scorches the leaves.
Is anthurium safe for pets?
No. All parts contain calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause mouth pain, drooling, swelling and vomiting in cats and dogs. Keep it out of reach.
Final Thoughts
Good anthurium care is about recreating a warm, humid forest floor: bright indirect light, an airy mix that drains fast, water only when the top inch dries, and steady warmth without drafts. Get those right, feed gently in the growing season, and your flamingo flower can keep producing glossy blooms for years.
Explore more easy and exotic houseplants in our indoor plants collection.
